Cookbook Review: Taverna by Georgina Hayden

Taverna by Georgina Hayden got me through this last summer. I bought it primarily because I was mourning my cancelled honeymoon to the Mediterranean and this seemed like a way to bring a taste to our table in Scotland. It was also just a beautiful book, I had picked it up in bookshops on several occasions in the Before Times and scanned through. The postponement was the real catalyst though, with the only way to travel being in my kitchen and shutting my eyes real tight as I stuffed myself with keftedes and kalamari me marathos (Cypriot pork meatballs and calamari with fennel, respectively.)

The book is a fantastic resource for bringing. While from a Cypriot background, Hayden grew up in the UK so she is very helpful in guiding the reader on sourcing and substituting ingredients that may be more difficult to find here. She manages to showcase Cypriot cuisine beautifully while acknowledging the limitations the reader might have. That’s the struggle with writing about and trying to bring regional cuisine to another audience, and I find Hayden managed it well, particularly since she is speaking into the context of a UK reader.

Taverna wins a ton of points in my book for its usability both in ingredients and technique. I found the recipes generally very easy to follow, Hayden writes with a relaxed tone. Only occasionally was I left wanting a bit more direction or specificity, though I could imagine this might frustrate less experienced cooks. But overall the dishes are very approachable for a newer cook. There’s a good mix of simpler dishes and ones that are more of a project. I also found the organisation straightforward. The images are beautiful and I love that the dishes photographed aren’t overly styled, they feel homey and achievable. A good word for the book would be unfussy, as the food is beautiful and delicious yet inviting and relaxed. They have a sort of off-duty model effortlessness about them.

Hayden did a fantastic job of weaving in her family’s story as well as general information on Cypriot cuisine. I loved learning about Lenten fasting in Cyprus and the wealth of new (to me) vegetarian meals to add to my arsenal.

And while so many of these Mediterranean dishes screamed ‘summer’ to me initially, there are plenty of recipes that feel perfectly at home in Scottish winter (a particularly cosy dish of lentils and spinach called faki moutzendra me spanaki comes to mind). I’ve been having so much fun going back through and rediscovering recipes I had passed over in the summer, not being much in the mood for roasted and stewed meals.

This cookbook injected a much-needed dose of freshness and sunshine to my cooking. The recipes and Hayden’s stories are joyful and so full of warmth. An absolute star in the summer and it has continued to prove its usefulness well into the colder months. It is a gem in my collection and has quickly risen the ranks to staple tier.

A gorgeous batch of baklava